January 2021

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Page 26 of 55

JANUARY 2021 WWW.PNWR.ORG 27 Tools Used in My 1964 356C Porsche Restoration This is the last of 7 articles regarding the restoration of my 1964 Porsche 356C and by now I'm sure you're either intrigued or fatigued (or both). My goal here is to keep this generic and limit it to tools applicable to any vintage Porsche restoration. The categories I narrowed it down to were; stud weld dent pulling tools, pneumatic metal working tools, 4-1/2" angle grinder, portable sand blasting, OEM style electrical connectors and torque wrench tools. Most of my tools were purchased years ago, so providing manufacturers and model numbers is no longer useful. In the age of Google and Amazon, functionally identical clones are easy to find by simply searching with their generic names. PStud Weld Dent-Pulling Tools – Back in the August 2020 article I described how I used these tools to pull dents that couldn't be reached from behind on my 356's rocker and nose panels. A 110-volt powered gun is loaded with an individual 2" long nail- shaped 2 mm diameter copper stud which is then positioned in the center of the dent and welded on by pulling the trigger for a couple seconds. Once secured there are two options for pulling out the dent; a small slide hammer that grips the copper stud or the Ding-Near-Perfect pulling tool by Shoot Suit based on a pop-rivet gun. Once the metal straightening is done, the copper stud twists off with a pair of pliers and any burr left in the surface is simply ground smooth. Pneumatic Metal Working Tools – Also back in August I described how I used my air compressor and these tools to cut out the rusted battery tray, then fitted and welded in a new one along with a new tow loop. The pistol shaped tool in the upper left of the photo is a dual-purpose punch/flange tool that I use to punch 5.5 mm holes along the edges of sheet metal replacement panels for plug welds with my MIG welder. The tool also makes a crimp along the edge of sheet metal to create a flange providing an offset for welding overlapped seams to join panels avoiding bump lap welds. The pistol shaped tool in the upper right is an air hammer which I used to peen the red-hot rivets holding the new front tow hook on. Interchangeable bits in various shapes allow for removing dents from the back side and straightening sheet metal panels. Lower left is an air nibbler which when used with a straight edge clamped to the metal I'm cutting, makes clean cuts in 18-gauge steel, perfect for trimming down replacement stamped body panels without deforming them. Lower right is an air saw which in addition to trimming down replacement body panels, is great for cutting out rusted areas on the car with very little effort. 4-1/2" Angle Grinder – The first thing to notice about this Craftsman tool is the safety guard that Sears legal department insisted on has been removed and a small sheet metal hook has been duct taped to the handle to keep my gloved fingers out of the cutting wheel. This grinder serves many purposes; cutting thick metal with a thin cut-off disc, surface abrasion with a coarse 80-grit paper with a rubber backing pad, grinding with a 1/4" thick wheel and panel smoothing with a stainless steel shrinking disc. This tool is the most dangerous and damaging in the shop; eyes, ears, skin, polar fleece clothing, leather gloves, glass, you name it, it will maim it! Not to mention hot sparks can ignite flammable liquids and the noise causes hearing loss. Even tempered safety glass will have pits left in it from the hot sparks of near molten metal. Of course it's all worth it because this is the tool that makes an ugly weld look good. You also have to be very mindful of the heat the friction this tool produces, it will warp sheet metal if you rush it. continued on page 30

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