September 2020

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SEPTEMBER 2020 WWW.PNWR.ORG 19 continued on next page This is the third of five articles chronicling the DIY 'driver' level restoration of my 356C, which will focus on the paint and reassembly phase. The previous two articles explained how I came to acquire the car and went into detail about the body work. Next month, Part IV will focus on engine building and Part V will cover interior restoration and engine break-in. Renowned Los Angeles-based 356 expert John Willhoit appeared on an episode of Jay Leno's Garage and mentioned his website. There I found out he sells a spray-out card paint sample of the original paint code 6206 "Metallic Silver" used on my car for $35. As body work was wrapping up, a Willhoit paint sample was ordered. Upon arrival I eagerly ran out to the shop and found it matched the surviving original paint on the dash of my car! Next the spray-out card was taped to the front fender of the car to see how it looked in the sunlight through my shop window. A new MAACO had recently sprung up in Woodinville and since I was shopping for a painter, despite all my preconceived notions, thought investigating them would be a good idea. I stopped by with my spray-out card to see if they had a metallic silver that came close in their sample book for their fixed cost paint jobs. The representative at the counter informed me of their Sherwin Williams automotive paint products and about $1,000 would buy the "basic" paint job on the outside of the car using their top-of-the line metallic two-stage (clear and color coat) paint. The real surprise was Sherwin Williams carries a metallic silver that cross-referenced to my Porsche 6206 paint code! My DIY project car painting strategy was to do my best at prep work and then turn it over to professionals for 'another set of eyes' to do the filler primer and block sanding to get it to mirror reflection quality. This service was available at MAACO for an additional $50 per hour. First a tech sprays a sealer on the entire car to keep any underlying finish materials (except for lacquer) from reacting with the solvents in the new layers of primer and paint. Then layers of a "high-build" filler primer and guide coat are sprayed on the car and block sanded out. Any low spots or defects that I missed would be fixed until each panel was to my approval. It wanted to repaint the entire car inside and out, except for the dash, with the doors, hood and engine lid removed. I insisted on doing the disassembly myself and then took the car home in pieces for reassembly. It was almost guaranteed that 50-year-old fasteners would be corroded. Removing and reinstalling them beforehand, after soaking them with penetrating fluid and using lots of patience, avoided problems later at the body shop. Personally, keeping track of all the original hardware was also a good idea, as it seems those hard–to-replace 14 mm head M8 nuts and bolts used by Porsche before 1970 always go missing in body shops. MAACO agreed that I would be allowed to take the car apart with my tools in their shop after the block sanding work was done. Once disassembled, responsibility for prepping the door jams, back sides of the doors, deck lid, and hood for painting was theirs. This checked all my boxes, so we pulled the trigger and scheduled a drop-off date. A car hauling trailer was reserved at nearby Del's Truck Rentals to deliver the car to the body shop towed behind my Ford F-250 pickup. Predictably, it was raining on the day I delivered the 'roller' to MAACO, but other than that there was no other drama. Weeks went by with steady progress and ample time for curing and

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